Lakes Winter Climber

Mixedmaster moves house

2010-03-26T17:39:00.004Z

In anticipation of a return to more wintery conditions the mixedmaster blog has now moved to the slightly more luxurious surroundings of the Epicentre Website. Coming soon I will have a weather station and web cam to add my conditions reports from out on the fells. I will also update the Epicentre facebook site and twitter with up to the minute lakes climbing conditions.

www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog

http://twitter.com/Epicentre_Lakes

I look forward to more climbing in the future.

Sun Burn.

2010-03-08T21:42:00.002Z

I've been a bit busy over the last week and haven't been doing my duties to winter climbing conditions justice. Last Monday I climbed Botterills Slab, a route I had wanted to climb for a long time it was certainly worth the wait and lived up to my expectations. Great thin ice climbing.

Mid week last week saw new snow fall on the old neve, initially this snow must have been quite cold and then it became slightly warmer and wetter,a reasonable accumulation of the wetter snow created some classic slab avalanche conditions.

Saturday was very warm with the freezing level shooting above the tops, this consolidated the snow pack and a heavy frost on Saturday night has given great snow ice in the classic gullies, Moss Ghyll is great and the Great End gullies are in fantastic condition. The last two days I have been working on my sun tan climbing at Great End.

25 years on.

2010-02-24T21:01:00.004Z

25 years after it's first ascent myself and Paddy Cave made what we believe to be the second winter ascent of Moss Ghyll Grooves on Monday.

The Slabs were very icy as were all the cracks, we climbed the corners only venturing onto the slabs where necessary.

It was quite a bit harder and more serious than the V 6 that Brian gave it in the new guide and considerably harder than the IV 4 that he originally gave it.

The snow conditions around the apron of the crag and in Deep Ghyll weren't too bad given the news of avalanches in the press this may well have changed with the new dump of snow. Buttress routes may be the order of the day until things settle down a bit.

The Cascade on the Shamrock is still massive and sporting two continental looking ice columns.

Weekend Conditions

2010-02-19T17:23:00.002Z

I was climbing at Great End yesterday. All of the gullies were in condition as were the buttresses, a layer of wet new snow was sitting over the hard neve but everything seemed fairly stable. The freezing level was above the top of Great End for a time yesterday which was only helping the consolidation of the new snow. Today has once again been cold and clear, it has been quite warm in the sun. Ice is starting to form again at all levels but the higher you go the better things will be.

Bowfell buttress was looking to be in good condition today. For ice I would probably head to scafell this weekend.

Another Cold Week

2010-02-12T22:12:00.005Z

Yet another cold week is over and the forcast is for still more cold weather next week. Paddy Cave has been out on Scafell over the last few days, climbing some of the classics, Botterills and Moss Ghyll as well as a great sounding new route on Deep Ghyll Buttress today. The ice has mostly gone from the East Buttress.

Hellvelyn and Great End are both giving good outings for classic gullies.

I've been making the most of great conditions married with sunshine on the Ben with a flying visit to link up a few routes on Wednesday. Some thin ice about but if you choose yor route carefully then it is in amazing condition. Orion was in the best condition I've done it in and Point 5 was probably climbable without ice axes (just hold on to the steps).

Skye looks to be in condition for a Ridge Traverse.

Have a good weekend.

Scafell.

2010-01-30T19:47:00.005Z

I've been at Scafell with my Dad today. A lot of snow had gone since I was last there but it had consolidated. I climbed Moss Ghyll again, it was in very different condition to a few weeks ago. The snow was consolidated and there was ice at the Collie Step, I followed the summer line threading behind the chockstone this was the secret to making the Collie step a lot easier than last time. The sunshine also helped to make things a bit more pleasant. After Moss Ghyll, we descended Deep Ghyll and Lords Rake and then climbed Steep Ghyll. It is always nice to climb classic routes in good condition.

There were quite a few parties out today. Pisgah Buttress seemed popular as did the Cascade on the Shamrock. There was a thin sliver of ice running down Botterils Slab, which looked like it would offer good sport.

It would have been a good day for someone to repeat the Girdle Traverse.....

Weekend Conditions

2010-01-22T20:07:00.002Z

Last night I had a quick trip up to Brown Cove crags and Helvellyn. I climbed one of the easy gullies on Brown Cove, Viking Buttress, Number one Gully and V corner. The freezing level was at the top of Brown Cove and rising throughout the evening, a cold E wind was blowing. Viking buttress was well hoared. The snow in the gullies was nice and firm. Today the freezing level has been above the tops but it has come back down and it will freeze tonight. Gullies and easier buttress routes high up will give some good conditions throughout the weekend. I would recommend going to Helvellyn or Great End to be sure of finding conditions.

Scafell. Rematch

2010-01-14T22:06:00.004Z

After failing on our line on Tuesday, Paddy Cave and myself were back at Scafell for a rematch today. We went armed with Brian Davison, plus a selection of homemade climbing equipment.

After a tricky drive round to Wasdale that took a bit longer than planned and a snow bash of a walk in we were back under the crag. It was quite a bit warmer today and although there was new snow it was wetter heavier snow. Lots of o ice on the Shamrock, cascade etc but it was dripping this morning. Feeling a bit tired and not my usual self I opted to leave Paddy and Brian to their route and joined Rick Armitage and John Kelly ( who had travelled round with us) on Moss Ghyll.

Moss Ghyll was hard going. It was never technically very difficult it was just buried under snow. There was no ice on the collie step which was quite balancy.

A thaw is forecast, which will give me a much needed rest. At the moment Sunday is looking like a possibility for high up ice, mixed routes will strip out very quickly with the weather that has been forecast.

Scafell.. Kids in a sweet shop..

2010-01-12T21:04:00.003Z

Made the trip round to Wasdale today and Scafell didn't disappoint. I have climbed on Scafell in winter before but today it felt like I had been transported to a magical realm of winter climbing. I haven't seen so much opportunity for futuristic lines anywhere else before. Conditions were amazing. We tried a new line on the East buttress before deciding the ice was a bit brittle and the wind a bit strong and then headed round to the main crag, eventually darkness overtook us before we got up the chosen route of the day.

We suffered a bit from the kids in a sweet shop syndrome and should have been more focused on a single objective.

Lets just say we have some unfinished business.

Aira Force. Good things come to those who wait..

2010-01-09T21:50:00.007Z

After a speculative look at Aira Force on Christmas day, I decided that it had been cold enough for long enough since then to be worth another look, my Dad popped down there this morning ( it's in his back garden) and confirmed that it would be climbable.

It didn't disappoint and the after work darkness only added to the atmosphere as we headed in to the gorge to the sound of thundering water. A nice traverse above the plunge pool on featured ice led to more featured ice, the final moves on the main pillar with water thundering underneath you were great. I placed a number of bomber screws both to protect the seconds on the traverse and in anticipation of thin ice with a waterfall gushing underneath me, fortunately this was never the case it all felt very relaxed. A great little route. The walk in took an epic 5 minutes.

The top car park is closed at the moment because of ongoing tree work, walk in from the main Aira force car park.

With Aira force being climbable it doesn't take a genius to work out that a lot of low level ice will be good. Rick climbed sandbed ghyll today, Low water beck is complete, etc,etc enjoy les cascades de lake district.

Photos and film show John Kelly and my Dad enjoying Aira Force

Launchy Ghyll

2010-01-08T07:59:00.003Z

After a tip off from Paul Cornforth who climbed Launchy Ghyll yesterday morning, I headed to climb it last night. We started from the road and continuing interest with lots of little ice steps eventually led to the main pitch. A number of lines were possible on the main pitch. Finished up the right hand side after this.

Turn left at the top to walk down.

The road down the West side of Thirlmere and the parking areas really needed 4X4 to avoid getting stuck.

FWA D Route, Gimmer.

2010-01-05T18:02:00.004Z

A strong NW wind overnight had plastered snow onto Gimmer, I had intended to climb Gimmer crack which will be in good condition but on arriving at the crag the Alphabet face was looking in good condition, this is a rare occurrence.

We climbed easy ground from the foot of Bracket and Slab to gain Ash tree ledge. This was nice easy mixed climbing. We then climbed the forked lightening crack of D route in 2 pitches the step left under the roof on the first pitch giving the technical crux and the top crack pitch giving brilliant climbing in a great position. It was both harder and more sustained than Bowfell Buttress and I would argue a better quality climb if that is possible. The turf was good and there were even bits and pieces of useful water ice on the rock

The wind has scoured slopes facing NW and we had crampons on back to the car. I was surprised to see no ice in Dungeon Ghyll.

Dave Birkett climbed one of the Wasdale Screes Gullies today.

I would be very wary of the Helvellyn head wall, there is some windslab about.

I was quite disappointed to get back in the daylight and didn't get a chance to have a go with my new headtorch, maybe next time..

The Freeze Continues

2010-01-04T16:45:00.005Z

Snow high up is still in need of a freeze thaw cycle, up to about 400m it has had some freeze thaw and is consolidating giving very slippy approach paths compacted snow on paths is particularly treacherous. I have been running intro winter skills courses in my garden in Ambleside. Note Rowan manages to keep hold of his ice axe.

Low level ice will be coming into condition, I had a look at Aira force on Christmas day, it wasn't anywhere near climbable but I will be heading back for another look soon.

One of the Crinkle Ghyll ice falls had seen an ascent at the weekend. Snow is forecast overnight tonight with an increasing wind speed so some more unusual mixed venues might come into condition. Bowfell Buttress is in good condition and the traffic it had at the weekend will have compacted the snow where necessary.

Lessons! FWA Hangover Dove Crag

2010-01-03T00:04:00.005Z

Lesson 1.

If you can drive to within an hours walk of a crag do. Don't decide that the cumulative driving and walking time would be the same as walking from home and embark on a 2 and a half hour snow bash to get to your route.

Lesson 2.

Don't drop your leashless tool down a bottomless crack half way up a route with darkness clipping at you heals in part due to lesson 1.

Lesson 3.

If you have yet to take heed of lesson 2 make sure your headtorch works before you attempt to finish your route with one axe. Climbing in the dark with one tool and no torch presents a challenge.

Lesson 4.

If you have yet to take heed of lessons 1,2 and 3 make sure you are climbing with Brian Davison who it turns out is quite good at climbing in the Dark with no torch and only one axe, He also still uses leashes so there is no risk of him dropping his. If you have fallen short on lessons 2 and 3 steal his torch and ice axe and make a B line for the top of the crag leaving him to deal with the aftermath.

Lesson 5.

If you failed at lesson 1 it is a long walk down without a torch.

Today I learnt these lessons on the first winter ascent of Hangover, Dove crag. It was a long walk in from Ambleside, I dropped my tool down a big crack, my torch didn't work when it got dark and it was a long walk home. It was a good route and I'm sure in the not too distant future I'll decide that I had a good time.

Conditions were quite good the turf was dry frozen which made things a bit precarious at times. The snow on the fell tops has consolidated quite a bit with the wind throughout the day. The paths low down are very icy.

More Snow

2009-12-28T18:58:00.003Z

Snow at low levels thawed a bit over the last 2 days and froze hard last night, low down there is a crust or very icy paths where people have walked making getting about a bit tricky.

Routes are quite buried, popular venues with tracks into them being my recommendation. Skiing has been quite a good option. Up to 30cm of new snow is forecast between now and the weekend. There will be a reasonable avalanche risk in places like the Helvellyn Head Wall and the bowl at the to of central gully Great End. The Gullies are not consolidated and would require good snow swimming technique.

Picture shows Sharp Edge today

Snow.

2009-12-27T07:54:00.002Z

Headed up to Black Crag ice fall on Christmas day after a very speculative look at Aira Force. The snow on the walk up to Black Crag definately gave us an appetite for Christmas dinner in places in was waist deep. The ice was covered in snow which had prevented it from forming properly which gave insecure climbing with most of the ice coming off when you hit it. I came down after the first pitch. It was a day for Ski touring. Yesterday was a bit warmer but probably not warm enough to consolidate the snow higher up.

I would look to head further west and hope that there wasn't as much snow, Scafell or Pillar could be worth a try for Buttress routes.

Getting about is a bit difficult the passes are still dodgy and some minor roads are covered in 4 to 6 inches of hard packed snow ice.

Burning the Candle at Both Ends.

2009-12-23T07:21:00.003Z

After finishing work at 5am, varnishing floors in the EPICENTRE (opening on Thursday, pop in and let us know what you've been up to), I headed down Langdale for a spot of climbing before heading back to work for another night shift. Good training for multi day climbing efforts.

With snow and frozen ground down to valley level we did a route close to the road. It is rare to be able to do roadside winter cragging in this country. We just need a few more hot tubs to capture the true alpine experience

There is now a lot of snow high up, take care on some slopes (Helvellyn head wall) where avalanche could be an issue. The roads aren't too bad but the mountain passes are out of the question. (Walk into Gable from Seathwaite via Gillercombe)

Photos show Rick Armitage and John Kelly enjoying winter valley cragging in Langdale.

Enjoy the conditions.

FWA Samaritan Corner Gimmer

2009-12-20T18:33:00.003Z

After snowfall on frozen ground last night. We headed to Gimmer today. It is always quite rare to find conditions at Gimmer. Looking for a short day in order to get back for a bit of sledging this afternoon we opted for Samaritan corner. Just left of Asterisk this turfy summer MVS corner line gave a good sustained climb.

Bowfell Buttress looked to be in good condition as did Pavey Ark. It is snowing in Ambleside this evening. One of the problems in the next few days will be getting about, the passes will be a bit tricky. Most mountain crags will be worth a look at for mixed buttress routes, and quite a lot of ice is forming to low levels. We will have to see how conditions develop. With sunshine and cold forecast for later in the week some of the snow in the gullies may consolidate, buttresses might strip a bit in the sun and more ice should form.

Winter comes back to the Lakes: New routes at crag X

2009-12-19T19:39:00.004Z

After being up at 2 in the morning yesterday varnishing floors I decided to knock a planned winter Bob Graham round on the head until early in the new year and headed out climbing instead.

I have been out at a new crag today with Brian Davison and my Dad. It was a high NW facing crag we did 3 new routes; a grade 2, a III 4 and a VI 6, there's plenty more to go at so the exact location shall remain a mystery.

The ground was frozen at all levels with quite a lot of icing on the paths. People climbed the upper Angle Tarn icefall, (it was quite brittle) and a team had been to Bowfell Buttress. It has been snowing this afternoon there is just over 1 inch in Ambleside. Getting about may be a problem tomorrow, pretty much anywhere will be worth a look. I would recommend the usual spots for reliable conditions, Bowfell, Great End, Hellvelyn and Gable, there isn't a big build up in the gullies but buttresses and ice weeps should be fine.

Back on the Ben

2009-11-29T23:02:00.005Z

Just back from a first trip north of the season. Yesterday was a brilliant sunshine day on the Ben. The snow line is at the CIC hut and is just over knee deep in coire na ciste. Went to slab climb on the Trident buttress yesterday and did Tower Ridge today. There was a layer of ice firmly attached to the rock that made it hard to find footholds but the cracks weren't too chocked with ice, burried turf wasn't frozen. It was a lot colder today and there was a strong NE wind blowing this had stripped some snow off some of the harder routes around the top of Number three gully buttress and has started forming quite a bit of ice around and about it also made for an exiting crossing of t Tower Gap.

It was snowing as we came over Dunmail Raise this evening so we'll have to see what happens it the lakes this week. I think the fells could be too wet for good conditions at the moment.

Waiting for the winter

2009-08-11T17:03:00.003+01:00

To while away the summer months I decided to address unfinished business with Lakes Ultra Trail. The race was run for the first time last year. I only made it 85 miles of the way round before calling it a day in torrential rain and strong winds, this year I had to finish it. The last 10 miles were a bit of a trial, but I did get round, a little outside of my target of 30 hrs so I will have to go back next year.

Gimmer Chimney FWA.

2009-02-09T21:28:00.005Z

Taking advantage of the snowfall yesterday afternoon and knowing that the turf would be solid I thought Gimmer Chimney would be worth a look at yesterday evening. It was in brilliant condition and gave a really good mixed climb with technical balancey climbing. Gimmer is rarely in condition. Gimmer Chimney is probably in condition more often than you would think and has a healthy covering of turf, being able to see it from the house probably helps in catching it just right.

The Pictures show John Kelly in a blizzard on the first pitch and exiting the chimney on the second pitch.

Brilliant ice conditions

2009-02-05T21:45:00.002Z

Yesterday I went for a milage day to try and finally throw off the flu. I started at Brown Cove crags and finished at Tarn and Falcon crag I climbed; Right Buttress Crack, left Buttress, Central Gully, Viking Buttress, V corner, Number 1 Gully, Nethermost Gully, Jogebar Gully, Thrash Corner, Rescue Groove, Ramp Route, Chock Gully, Dollywagon Chimney and Dollywagon Gully. The East Facing aspect is wind scoured and plastered in Neve. The last three routes I did for completeness I did do them the day before but they were in such good condition.

This afternoon I went for a speculative look at Inaccessible gully with Rich Ensoll, a route that I had wanted to do for a long time. It didn't disappoint and was in great condition. Featured ice, thin ice,. neve and overhanging chockstones all the ingredients for a classic route don't be fooled by the overall Grade IV rating.

That's 18 routes in three days. I don't really need to say that conditions are good. I've had reports that some of the easier angled buttress routes around bowfell aren't in great condition with unconsolidated snow and unfrozen snow.

If you're heading out for a walk you will need an axe and crampons and you will use them. There have been a lot of accidents over the last few days. There are big sheets of neve everywhere and you easily take a few hundred metre slip!!

Chocks away

2009-02-03T20:12:00.003Z

Had a running mission to Helvellyn this afternoon. I climbed Dollywagon Gully, Dollywagon Chimney and Chock Gully. Brilliant snow ice short sections of water ice and a few chock stones to negotiate being the order of the day made more exiting by wearing running shoes with G10's tightly affixed. Some of the best conditions for this type of climbing in recent years. The fells are covered in big slabs of glissening neve from about 500m upwards, there is quite a lot of water ice building where the sun has been on the snow. The very top of the buttress to the left of Dollywagon Gully had a small amount of hoar on it.

Gullies above red tarn will be good as will Great End.

Weekend Conditions

2009-01-23T18:36:00.002Z

The buttresses stripped out on Wednesday night and it was quite warm on Thursday. Lots of snow stayed through the thaw and overnight on Thursday it snowed again this time down to Valley level. What snow had stuck to steeper ground stripped off in the sun during the day today and there has been very little wind.

The snow is quite wet and may start to freeze down overnight tonight, underneath the snow the turf is not frozen. You need to find routes that don't rely on turf and have snow stuck to them or try your luck with a gully. I would head as high as possible and go to Gable Crag. If you park at Seathwaite and walk up Gillercombe you can always go across to Great End if Gable doesn't give you any sport and see if the gullies have consolidated.

Wild weather

2009-01-21T22:30:00.003Z

Had a quick trip to Pavey on Tuesday afternoon, The crag was very white intended to look at something that wouldn't have too much turf on it as it was a bit soggy under the snow. Climbed Cooks Tour which gave a very good first pitch before easier ground led to the top. There is a lot of snow on the tops and strong winds have been adding to the general experience.

I was at Gable Crag yesterday with fellow Langdale resident Mark Edwards. After sampling some exiting ground after a somewhat leisurely start we finished off up the bottle shaped pinnacle. Again lots of snow and a strong wind. For snowed up rock on the steep ground conditions were good. easier angled ground is hard going with loads of snow. Windy gap is sporting an alpine style snow crest.

The forecast is for a catastrophic thaw tonight at all levels with heavy rain coming in on a warm front. It will then cool down again during the day tomorrow. We will have to wait and see what happens.

Snow overnight with strong winds

2009-01-18T08:22:00.002Z

It has snowed down to approx 400m overnight. The snow came on strong sw wind. Things around Bowfell Buttress look pretty white this morning. It was 10 degrees and raining 12 hours ago and the current freezing level is hovering around the summits. A couple of days with the forecast temperatures and wind speeds could bring places that are steep enough to not hold too much snow into condition. Under the snow on easier angled routes the turf will not freeze down.

Water Ice.

2009-01-03T08:46:00.002Z

It has been very cold over last week or so, Thursday was the really cold day with an overnight temperature of -8.5 in Langdale and day time temperature didn't make it into positive. It was a bit warmer yesterday and only just froze last night.

There is a lot of water ice around. Last night I climbed Whorneyside Ghyll. The rope was really there so that I could be pulled out of the plunge pool at the bottom in the event that the thin brittle ice up the side of the waterfall decided to part company with the rock. Survived the mission without taking any icy dips. Whilst it was climbable there is probably better quality ice to go at than major drainage lines. I would head for a frozen seepage line like Window Gully on Great End, the ice to the left of Raven Crag in Combe Ghyll Borrowdale, Angle Tarn Icefalls etc. The Crinkle Ghyll ice falls could be worth a look not sure how good the ice will be as they are very hard to predict.

Weekend Conditions

2008-12-12T17:00:00.002Z

Had a flying midweek trip to Lochnagar. Conditions were good for Hard Buttress routes but on easier angled things, lots of snow was hindering progress. Wednesday was also quite windy.

Today the temperature has slowly climbed all day after light snowfall at valley level this morning. It is currently 6 degrees and raining heavily in the valley, it could just still be snowing on the tops.

There is good well consolidated snow in the gullies at Great End and on Helvellyn with a warm night and rain forecast, followed by freezing again tomorrow I would head to either of these spots for a day out tomorrow.

Work!

2008-12-07T10:07:00.002Z

Unfortunately I was at work yesterday, I did manage to escape for long enough between shifts to do yet another ascent of Bowfell Buttress. It was buried under snow and without secret knowledge of gear placements etc it would have been slow going. The turf was Ok but would have frozen better without all the snow. Quite a lot of people out but managed to get past everyone as they all went off route.

Flat Crags was climbable yesterday as was North Buttress and Cambridge Crags, one team making first ascent of Mindbender.

Hoping that steeper buttress routes don't get stripped by the thaw that is forecast between now and Monday afternoon before cold conditions return. It should bring classic gullies into good condition.

Weekend conditions

2008-12-05T16:46:00.002Z

Just back form an afternoon trip to Pavey. The freezing level is coming down and it was snowing from about 600m up on a cold strong NE wind.

The Snow that fell yesterday is still wet at all levels, if it freezes down as forecast tonight and during the day tomorrow it will certainly be worth heading out into the fells.

The cold wind with snow could bring harder mixed routes at places like Gable and Pillar where the turf was frozen before it snowed back into condition.

There is quite a bit of water ice forming around and about. The Cascade on Scafell Shamrock looked good on Wednesday and should have survived the slightly warmer day yesterday. Window gully at Great End would also be worth a look.

Helvellyn has a lot of snow but the turf isn't great and there isn't as yet a large build up of ice on routes such as V corner.

Bowfell Buttress looks very white and would be unquestionably a winter experience tomorrow, my only doubt would be wether the turf is frozen under the snow. You just have to go and have a look.

The roads have been ok today, untreated roads are to be avoided.

Early mornings, late evenings, tricky drives, great routes and smashed cars

2008-12-04T14:06:00.005Z

Rich on Scafell Xerxes pitch 2

Andy on Xerxes pitch 1

Scafell on Wed

Rich on Winterceptor

The Last few days have given some of the best winter climbing conditions in recent years. The hard frosts combined with snow overnight on Monday gave treacherous driving conditions but brought high north facing crags into great condition, it snowed all day on Tuesday which wasn't forecast and a strong Nw wind gave things a chilly feel. Rich Cross, Andy Turner and myself completed a winter version of Mome Rath at Gable on Tuesday which gave surprisingly amenable climbing in an intimidating and improbable position. The crux of the day for me was descending Honister with a liberal coating of snow and ice. I now need a new set of lights for my car.

Yesterday was a sunshine day, an early start took us to Wasdale. Scafell was in great condition. We made the first winter ascent of Xerxes a HVS on Deep Ghyll buttress. It was a good looking line which in Rich's words was one of the most awkward and unhelpfull pieces of winter climbing. Blind seams, off balance ledges and shallow turf being the order of the day.

Today it is quite warm and at all levels , there has been a lot of snow overnight. It is wet snow and the steeper buttresses have stripped in the rain. If it freezes conditions will be good for classic gullies and mid grade buttress routes. Look out for avalanche risk on Helvellyn head wall The roads aren't bad at the moment but passes are out of the question.

All systems Go !

2008-11-29T08:51:00.002Z

Things are looking pretty good this morning, If anybody has ever wanted to do Bowfell Buttress then today would be a good day to go and have a look. From the valley it looks just about in the best condition I have seen it in, my one concern would be wether the turf is frozen underneath the snow, the only way to find out is to head up the hill. It should have been about -6 on the fells last night. The Sun will be on Bowfell buttress until about lunch time. Scafell, Gable, Helvellyn Great End and many more spots would all give some sport today.

Weekend Conditions

2008-11-28T12:26:00.002Z

It looks like it would be well worth a walk out this weekend. It has snowed down t0 approx 200m overnight and this morning. It has been freezing on the top from yesterday evening onwards and it is currently 2.5 degrees at 100m in Langdale. I think there is a chance that in the odd very high N facing spot some of the turf that was frozen on Tuesday might have just stayed solid. It was quite warm and wet on Wednesday.

The fells are clagged in at the moment so things could be hoaring up, this does mean it is difficult to see exactly what conditions are like at the moment. Having been there on Monday I would recommend Gable Crag it is the highest crag and there are routes that need only the slightest hint of conditions to be climable. Places with the least snow fall will probably stand the best chance of having good turf.

Bowfell Buttress

2008-11-25T21:41:00.003Z

The forecast rise in temperature this afternoon was a bit later than it was supposed to be. Seeing that the snow on Bowfell Buttress had survived the morning sun and guessing that it would be freezing down again once the sun was off it, I headed up for a look this afternoon. The turf was well frozen and it was covered in consolidated snow. The top of the crag was lighly hoared as was the top wall of North Buttress. It has warmed up a bit now but hopefully some of the turf will stay frozen until it cools down again on Thursday. Photos show Martin Bagness on Bowfell Buttress. We climbed straight up the wall above the grooves on the Second pitch to link up with the top groove. This gave a much more natural winter line than the summer route at about the same grade.

Gable Crag

2008-11-24T21:13:00.003Z

Headed up to have a quick look at Gable Crag this afternoon, a couple of cold days a strong northerly and a bit of snow here and there made it worth a walk out. Pinnacle ridge at Gable is a very reliable route and probably comes into condition more readily than anything else in the Lakes. The turf was well frozen, there was snow on the ledges and from half way up the rock was lightly hoared. Engineers slab was lighlty hoared and another cold night could make it just about climbable tomorrow morning, it depends on whether the wind prevents a greater build up.

The buttress above central gully on Great End would be worth a walk up to it all looked very white, Grande Finale will almost certainly be climbable.

Temperatures are forecast to rise tomorrow afternoon so you would have to be quick to get a route. It is cooling down again later in the week. Any whiteness will probably strip out but in sheltered high spots I think the turf might just stay frozen, things could be looking good for next weekend.

Beinn Eighe Pictures

2008-10-30T17:27:00.007Z

Here's some pictures from Beinn Eighe yesterday, Viv Scott and I climbed a new route (Bandits VII 8) on Fuselage wall. It was a fantastic climb in a great position. The distance shots were taken by Sam Loveday who climbed Fight or Flight a route on the buttress to our right.

Today the freezing level in the lakes has been higher than forecast and what looked like promising conditions this morning quickly stripped out. Some of the easier lines at Gable will probably still be worth going to have a look at.

A New Season

2008-10-30T08:09:00.002Z

Just back from a fleeting visit to Torridon, this morning the lakes looks pretty good, I haven't been up the fell yet but freezing levels have been low enough for turf to be frozen so its probably worth a walk out. Bowfell buttress looks in condition this morning, there is also a chance that Gable will be hoared, if not some of the easier routes there will be in condition.

Climbed a new route on Beinn Eighe yesterday with Viv Scott, conditions were perfect. There was snow down to the valley and a surprising amount of ice forming around the place. W facing crags had the most hoar on them.

Helvellyn a good introduction to winter climbing

2008-03-26T19:54:00.004Z

Alex Ridyard giving winter climbing a go on V Corner Helvellyn.

Helvellyn

2008-03-26T19:47:00.002Z

Climbed above Red Tarn today. Descent of the snow basin was not great, a softening base with a 4/5cm layer of new wet snow on it gave very treacherous balling snow. Climbed V corner, freezing level was hovering around the summit but climbing conditions were good, ice and good turf being the order of the day. Viking buttress not looking that white but would probably be OK once you were on the route looking down. Forecast temperatures would indicate that conditions will probably stay in for the next few days.

Bowfell Buttress

2008-03-24T08:09:00.002Z

Climbed Bowfell Buttress after work yesterday. Really nice conditions which made for a rapid ascent. Turf well frozen. Good conditions for easier mixed climbing all around the Bowfell corries, N gully looked good on the good old neve.

Cold Wind.

2008-03-22T13:28:00.003Z

There is a very cold NE wind blowing today with frequent snow showers, Exposed turf will be freezing from approx 600m upwards, I was at about 300m this morning for work and it was starting to freeze down. Quite a bit of water ice appears to have formed very quickly around the head of Langdale under Bowfell Buttress etc. No new snow laying on the fells around langdale. N gully on Bowfell Buttress looks complete and the old snow will be solid. Hellvelyn will be giving the best climbing on old snow at the moment a bit more snow will be needed to bring somewhere like Gable into nick.

Skye Pictures

2008-03-19T17:13:00.002Z

Top Conditions on Skye Ridge

2008-03-19T16:53:00.004Z

After seeing a number reports hinting that the Skye Ridge might be in condition, (thank you Mike Lates) I thought it was time to go and have a closer look. Leaving the car at 5am yesterday, I left the summit of Sgurr Nan Gillean at 7am. The snow conditions were near perfect hard enough to take a placement but soft enough to allow quick descending, a set of tracks seemed to be taking a good line which was a bonus. In a few showers visibility disappeared for periods but on the whole it was a clear sunny day. I reached the Innacessible pinnacle at 12:15, it was a bit breezy but again it gave just the right combination of firm enough snow and the rock on the arete was dry having been in the sun. I lost a bit of time here and there not having been further than Bruach Na Frithe before, I lost the most time at the TD gap climbing out of the far side to see that it would probably be quicker to go down and round so I rapped back into the gap. I down climbed most obstacles abseiling from Kings Cave Chimney to get off Bastier Tooth, From the top of The Inn Pin, down Kings Chimney and into the TD gap. I reached Gars Bheinn at 16:07 and was back at Glen Brittle for 18:00. I used a combination of 2 tools and a set of poles. I had crampons on from the ascent to Gillean to the ridge leading up to Gars Bhienn where the snow was soft after being in the Sun.

Good Looking Forecast.

2008-03-19T16:43:00.002Z

There is still quite a bit of snow hanging on, on Helvellyn. A number of freeze thaw cycles have been improving it's quality and the cold nights have been freezing the turf down. The freezing level is forecast to be well above the tops for around 36 hours from tonight what snow survives this will then freeze down as freezing level should then drop to 350m on Friday.

On high north facing crags the strong winds and snow that is forecast from Friday afternoon onwards coupled with the recent cold nights, should bring some mixed climbing into condition. We need to wait and see what happens. Gable crag would be my top choice but it all depends on how warm it gets tomorrow.

Langdale This Morning.

2008-03-10T10:37:00.001Z

2008-03-10T10:31:00.002Z

Overnight it has snowed down to 200m. There has been no sign of the forecast strong winds as yet and the freezing level is hovering around the tops.

The turf is not frozen and the snow is quite wet, unless it gets a bit colder and the wind picks up things will look the part but actual climbing conditions wont be any good.

2008-02-20T10:19:00.002Z

It has been pretty warm for a few weeks now, rock climbing has been the order of the day, Esk buttress being the preferred location.

This week it has been very cold at night and very warm during the day (in the Sun). In shady areas seeps have formed good water ice. I think you would find something to play around on, possibly around the rocks below Bowfell buttress (under the Climbers traverse) or in some of the gullies at Boat Howe, but I haven't seen any routes completely formed.

Cloudy and a bit warmer today. Some forecasts are giving out a mixture of snow and rain on the fells for the next few days the turf is frozen so lets hope it doesn't get too warm and wet.

Failure !!

2008-02-07T10:29:00.000Z

I have been neglecting my duties in the Lakes again and been tempted north. Some routes were done at the weekend with exciting lean conditions being found on the crags. It is now once again warm and wet in Langdale

I had a week in wild weather getting very cold, doing some hard climbing but failing to actually get up anything. All I have to show for it is a chest infection and sore arms. You can't win all the time.

2008-01-24T13:21:00.000Z

Back in the Lakes after a failed new route mission to the Ben, the crag was quite icy with alot of verglas which put us off the main objective. Failed on the second choice route because it was too hard. Climbed Glovers Chimney, Tower Ridge and Number Three gully buttress as consolation.

On Tuesday the freezing level shot up and it was raining on the plateau. Some good ice forming and freeze thaw cycles will only do this good. Hopefully the thaw will get rid of some of the verglass. Picture taken on the plateau on Tues look closely and you'll see the post at the top of NO 4 gully.

2008-01-16T13:49:00.000Z

New snow down to about 600m on Bowfell this morning. very small amount of old snow survived the thaw, I think the best conditions to be found in the Lakes at the moment will be at night on Helvellyn.

Bowfell buttress looked the part for a time this morning but the turf isn't frozen under the snow.

2008-01-12T08:29:00.001Z

Cloud cover and light rain at valley level with -2 degrees could have made some crags hoar up overnight. I would try Gable Crag. North Buttress, Cambridge Crags and Bowfell Buttress could all be worth a try, if they're no good you could always carry on over to Great End.

An evening on Bowfell

2008-01-11T21:07:00.000Z

I have just got back from an after work wander up Bowfell, I was heading for Great End, but after walking down Mickledon and up to Angle tarn I remembered how far it was to Great End. I contoured in under Bowfell Buttress and climbed North Gully. I went round the main chock stone pitch on the right as there wasn't enough snow. apart from this the Gully gave a nice trip on OK snow ice. I descended the gully on the other side into broad gully and came back along the traverse path climbing one of the easy gullies on Traverse crag to round the trip off.

The freezing level was about 600m. It will freeze down to valley level tonight. The snow was good and gave good placements. The turf is frozen and there was some water ice forming in dribbles over the rock around the top of the gully. There is a cold Westerly breeze. There is nothing on Bowfell Buttress and it will only be easy gullies and buttresses that are in condition.

Anywhere where the snow has survived will give a good outing tomorrow. I guess there will be something to climb at Great End, how well formed the ice pitches will be and how much traffic they will survive you will just have to find out. Helvellyn will also have something to offer, Jogebar could be a good bet, I think Red tarn could be busy.

It will all disappear on Sunday.

RAIN

2008-01-10T12:43:00.000Z

The overnight snow was very short lived you might have got a route done in the middle of the night but by 8 this morning it had all gone. It is currently raining heavily at all levels and 9 degrees in the valley (warmer than was originally forecast). One team was at Gable yesterday and reported that there was a bit of snow some hoar and the turf wasn't quite frozen, it needed another cold day.

Ice Factor Dry tooling

2008-01-09T23:39:00.001Z

A last bit of training before another New Route on the Ben

Scottish New Route and Snow in the Lakes.

2008-01-09T22:46:00.000Z

Back from Scotland this afternoon after a wild day on the Ben yesterday. Again climbing with Andy Turner we made the first ascent of a route we have called Storm Trooper. It climbs the wall to the right of Darth Vader overlooking the start of Archangel.

As is becoming a bit of a theme Rob Jarvis was once again first to get the scoop and a report can be seen on his website, http://www.highlandguides.com/winterreports0708.htm There is a lot of new snow on the Ben and it will take a couple of days to calm down. We got caught in a small avalanche whilst descending No 3 gully after the route.

A wet walk in Glen Coe on Sunday and a trip to the ice factor to set some dry tool problems completed the trip North.

I have just been in to Ambleside this evening and whilst I was there it has put about 5cm of snow on the road. It is forecast to warm up and the freezing level go above the summits briefly on the back on the snow early tomorrow before cooling down again. If the forecast is correct there will be climbing to be had in the Lakes over the next few days. We need to see what the morning brings.

2008-01-05T08:47:00.000Z

Sat 08:48

It rained heavily over night and the snow line appears to have gone up to about 600m, and then it looks thin on the ground. It is 6.5 degrees in Langdale and the Westerly wind is gusting to 30 miles an hour at valley level. The buttresses around Bowfell are stripped, I think Gable might just be holding on to conditions for easier mixed lines, I don't think Engineers slab will be hoared but you never know.

Pavey Ark

2008-01-04T17:05:00.000Z

New Routes at Pavey Ark

2008-01-04T16:53:00.000Z

After a Walk yesterday I had to wait and see if the snow that was forecast actually arrived overnight.

Yesterday the turf was frozen on all aspects down to about 400m and some water ice was forming albeit unclimable as yet. There was a strong cold Easterly blowing

Armed with this information Brian Davison and I decided to go to Pavey Ark today. Approx 4cm of snow had fallen at valley level overnight.

Being E to SE facing Pavey rarely comes into acceptable condition. Today it was pretty good with well frozen turf, hoar frost and plenty of snow. We made first winter ascents of Little Corner (HVS 5a, see pictures) and Bennisons Chimney( Chimney above East Gully)

As we were coming down, at about 3pm the Freezing Level was rising. It was at about 650m and some of the hoar had stripped from the bottom of the crag. It was raining from about 400m down. It is currently raining quite heavily in the valley. With freezing levels forecast to be at 800m tomorrow with a strong Westerly I think if any where will hold onto condition it will be Gable Crag. The Buttress overlooking Central Gully on Great End might also be Ok ( this can be Accessed by descending the right hand finish).

Thin Ice. Are you brave enough?

2007-12-20T17:31:00.000Z

Managed to get to Crinkle Ghyll in my lunch hour. Temperatures in the valley during the week would have made you think that water ice should be forming. -6 at night and -2 during the day. There has been an inversion but I would have expected it still to have been cold enough to form a bit of ice. I climbed 10m up one of the icefalls before deciding it was suicidal and that nobody would hear my screams of agony if I fell off so I came down before it was too late. The ice as you can see was very thin and required a very delicate touch. A rope, a bouldering mat and a rack of Bulldogs might have tempted me to go higher. I then found a bit of ice to boulder on.

Helvellyn is still giving the most wintry outing at the moment, although I think there should be good enough ice in Window Gully. Snow is forecast for Saturday and bomber turf could bring things like Bowfell Buttress into condition.

The real climbing venue for the day should have been sun rock Gimmer.

Helvellyn

2007-12-18T12:39:00.000Z

Been running up Helvellyn this morning. Climbed one of the gullies on Brown Cove crags (Good Neve at the top) before dropping down the snow field right of Viking buttress. Although not hoared Viking buttress was in ok condition with bombproof turf and snow on the ledges. After Viking Buttress I did V corner and wound around a bit following the most continuous ice and snow line, I finished off with number 2 gully. I think Helvellyn will probably give the most wintry outing at the moment and it is in good condition for most of the lines.

There should be some water ice forming in places like Blea Water, Window gully(Great End), and Cold Lazarus ( Hart Crag). You just have to go and have a look.

Temperature Inversion Spoils the Fun.

2007-12-16T09:28:00.000Z

I have been slightly neglecting my duties as prophet of Lakes winter climbing over the last week. Largely because there hasn't been much to write about

It has been very cold in the valleys for the last couple of days but due to an inversion the freezing level has been above the tops. The odd gully in the Eastern fells (NO 2 gully on Helvellyn ) has managed to hold just enough snow to give a wintry outing.

The Secret

2007-12-13T00:36:00.001Z

More film of The Secret

2007-12-13T00:35:00.001Z

Andy in action on the first ascent of The Secret X,10

Not so Secret

2007-12-13T00:03:00.000Z

I have been up in Scotland for a couple of days, the snow that fell in the Lakes didn't really hang around long enough and was gone before it froze, one team ventured to Gable yesterday but didn't find anything to climb.

My trip to Scotland has been well covered by many different people. A great piece of climbing by Andy. See. www.highlandguides.com and www.alpinist.com for more information

Snowing in Langdale

2007-12-08T12:04:00.000Z

It is currently snowing quite heavily in Langdale, bearing in mind it was 8.5 degrees at midnight last night and only cooled down about 2 hours ago winter climbing will be out of the question. The ridges on Helvellyn and Blencathra will give a wintry day out tomorrow.

Something like Pinnacle ridge would give good sport but again I think you would be rock climbing and clearing snow.

Sioux Wall, a good start to the season.

2007-11-24T16:32:00.001Z

Lured north by the promise of a good day on Friday I teamed up with Tim Blakemore (http://www.northernmountainsport.co.uk/) for a trip to the Ben. Greeted by Deer, an Eagle and sunshine on the walk in, I knew it was going to be a good day. Looking for a good start to the season we headed for Number 3 gully buttress. We climbed Sioux Wall. It is a great route with 3 very sustained pitches. See report on alpinist http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-sioux-wall-winter-third

New Additions to Lakes climbing Scene.

2007-09-06T15:42:00.000+01:00

With winter just around the corner the Lakes has 2 new additions to the climbing scene to look out for. Patrick Wood and Rowan Ashworth both born on 29th August are set to take Lakes climbing into the future.

2007-03-25T21:37:00.000+01:00

I think it would be fair to say that over the weekend there has been a very definite springiness in the air.

There was some ice to be climbed last week, a very cold night on Tuesday meant that in a few cold spots enough water ice had formed to be climbable, I found some ice at Boat Howe, and I had reports that SE Gully and Window Gully on Great End were climbed Window Gully giving the best outing.

The Mountain Crags seem pretty dry at the moment, on Friday I had an evening mission to Esk Buttress, climbed Bridges Route topped out Scafell and made it back to Esk Hause before needing the headtorch. Gimmer yesterday evening and Bowfell Buttress today. Ice climbing and soloing in shorts and a T-shirt all in a few days isn't the Lakes Brilliant.

2007-03-20T09:03:00.000Z

Just freezing at valley level overnight. A few optimists were out yesterday but found thin snow covering un-frozen turfboth at Bowfell and Helvellyn. The snow moved back up to about 500m yesterday and temperatures hit 7.5 degrees at valley level.

It's another bright sunny morning and as we speak the snow is melting some more. I think Gable Crag would offer the best possibility of any winter climbing today, if it's not in condition you can always go round the corner and climb on the Napes in the sunshine

2007-03-19T08:13:00.000Z

Bowfell this morning

Snow cover down to approx 200m, 3 degrees at valley level. The snow came over night on Saturday and on Sunday afternoon. Throughout this period there was a strong NW wind which may have frozen some turf down, the temperature was well into double figures only a few days ago. The main problem as far as climbing conditions will be concerned is that where there is enough snow to make things look white the turf will be insulated and not frozen. I know of a few people heading out to have a look today so watch this space.

2007-03-16T14:09:00.000Z

Nils Nielson On Darth Vader VII 8
Blair Fyffe on FWA The Knuckleduster VIII 9

Nick Bullock on Fantasia Mont Maudit

I've been back in the Lakes now for just over a week after having a great climbing trip. I managed to get a couple of routes done in the Alps before heading back for three weeks in Scotland.

Highlights of the trip included, a rare ascent of Fantasia per ghiaccatore on the Mont Maudit, with Nick Bullock, this a series of nice thin icy runnels with mixed steps in between. The day was only spoilt by my inability to ski back on my very short skis in my climbing boots. I did however manage to just about keep up with Nick on foot as he skied back. After the Alps a rapid single push trip back to Scotland was made.

My first day out saw a broken climbing partner due to very high winds. A couple of days later after teaming up with Blair Fyffe I made the first winter ascent of the Knuckleduster, It was very hard. The climbing was amazing with both hard and very exposed sections. For a full account by Blair see the Alpinist web site. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP19/newswire-ben-nevis-knuckleduster-mixed

One day I climbed 12 routes on the Ben: Garadh Gully, Cascade, Comb Gully, Green Gully, Two Step Corner, Number Three Gully Buttress, Thompsons Route, South Gully, Central Gully, Central Gully Right Hand, The Gift/North Gully LH finish and Ledge Route. I think I like moving fast over easier ground more than climbing hard technical routes.

I had a Great week climbing with my Dad, climbing Ben Nevis classics such as Point Five, Smiths andTower Ridge

I then took part in the BMC International Meet where I climbed with a couple of very Good Norwegian Climbers Nils and Bjorn. With Nils I had a very good last day of the meet Climbing Darth Vader, The Sorcerer (a new VII 8) and the Grade VII 7 corner above Thompsons route. We Climbed all but one day of the meet but two good days on the Ben made the week.

I rounded my climbing holiday off with a perfect day in the Loch Avon Basin with a sunshine ascent of Route Major

Over the last week I have been coming to terms with being back at work, Langdale is not that bad though. Watch this space as it is set to turn cold over the weekend, with any luck the Lakes will get another taste of winter.

2007-01-27T21:06:00.000Z

That's it on the winter climbing front for the time being, a few disappointed teams were out today but it was just far too warm. Sun rock Gimmer would have been a better bet.

2007-01-26T20:22:00.000Z

Temperatures hit 10 degrees in Langdale today and it was thawing at all levels, most of the snow has gone from the buttresses, but there is still snow down to 750m.

The water ice that has formed this week is still around. For anyone wanting to climb tomorrow I would suggest heading to Window Gully, Great End with a very early start. Be prepared for disappointment but I think high water ice will be the best bet. It will have thawed a bit today and then just refrozen over night. It could be gone by tomorrow afternoon good luck.

2007-01-26T09:22:00.000Z

Currently 8 degrees and drizzling in Langdale, Friday 9:30 am. I think you will have to b quick and high today.

2007-01-25T20:08:00.000Z

2007-01-25T19:53:00.000Z

Been at Hutaple with Woody today. Decided to head somewhere a bit different for a change.

We knew it was cold enough but weren't sure what conditions we would find, did the first winter ascent of Ampitheatre. It gave a brilliant icy mixed climb and if it wasn't for a 20m section of very hard mixed climbing up a crack which is avoided by slabs on the right in summer it would be an outstanding icy mixed grade VI 6.

I have never climbed anything like this in the Lakes before, the day had a very Torridonion feel to it. Overall I think the climb probably warrants VIII 8 and it is one of the best I have done. Belays a bit dodgy Icicles and warthogs being the order of the day.

Conditions looked pretty good at Scrubby with Pendulum ridge looking in very good condition. Link Cove Beck doesn't look climable at the moment.

The struggle was passable with care this morning.

Bowfell Buttress looked very white this morning and it would have been a brilliant day out today

I am awaiting news of parties who have been out to Scafell.

Tomorrow it supposed to warm up a bit and it looks like it could be strippingly warm by Sunday.
I think if you go high, Helvellyn ( my sources tell me Viking buttress and V corner in good condition), Gable (around bottle shaped pinnacle) or somewhere like North Buttress Langdale could all be fine tomorrow and we'll have to see what happens beyond that.

2007-01-24T20:51:00.000Z

Been at Gable Crag today, with Brian Davison, Stuart Wood (Woody) and Jake Huges.

Climbed two new routes with Brian, as yet un named in the grade V to VII region. Turf well frozen but pulling through in places (I have it on very good authority that this is due to alien Lancastrian species of grass which don't retain enough moisture) some areas of the crag hoared better than others and a strong and very cold North Westerly was stripping some hoar. Engineers slab probably just climbable ( it's your call, some of the harder stuff on that wall could do with being just a bit whiter) Routes around the bottle shaped pinnale in good condition. See pictures below.

The Road up to Honister was mostly fine with a few icy patches in places.

Pictures of Gable Crag Today

2007-01-24T19:34:00.000Z

2007-01-23T18:23:00.000Z

I Said it was thin, read report below, this is the Left Branch finish to Central Gully at Great End today.

2007-01-23T18:00:00.000Z

A few pictures from yesterday to start with. The top picture show Crinkle Picker, climb the crest of the buttress up the rib with the faint snow gully on its right. The second one is looking down Curving ridge. The third is looking up to Curving ridge (see details below) and the Fourth is the Valley.

2007-01-23T16:18:00.000Z

The cloud has just come down in Langdale and it is now snowing, this could change things and hoar buttresses up a bit over night. Watch this space.

2007-01-23T14:57:00.000Z

Just back from a lunchtime run to Great End. It was just too nice a day to be stuck in the valley. Ice forming at Angle Tarn icefalls probably a bit thin to climb at the moment.

Climbed the buttress to the Left of Central Gully. The Turf was Ok, but again where it is well burried it is not well frozen. The Gully lines are not holding any snow and there is a small amount of water ice forming. I crossed into central gully below the junction and there just enough ice to climb the Left Branch, it was thin and possibly IV rather than III today. I would say that it wouldn't sustain much traffic in its current condition and that the buttresses were in better condition. The upper buttress with Grande Finale on it was in condition all hoared up and for anyone after a taster of slightly harder Lakes mixed climbing this gives a really nice pitch. I was in a bit of hurry so didn't get a proper look at Window Gully but I suspect it has enough ice to be climbable.

Pictures of yesterday and today will follow this evening, my camera cable has currently been kidnapped.

2007-01-22T15:34:00.000Z

Just been up the Crinkles and Bowfell:
Climbed two new routes in the E most corrie of the crinkles marked as Great Cove on the map,
1:GR 252 047: Curving Ridge III 4, Climb the obvious curving ridge line over steps and slabby orners . 150m

The base of this route is approx 700m and it is NW facing some icing on the rocks snow consolidating and turf frozen. Some well burried turf no frozen but that's normal

2: GR251 049: Crinkle Picker IV 4 (with a move of 5), climb the arete of the buttress on the right hand side of the gully to the right of Terrace Crag. after a saddle at the top of the first ridge section make a couple of steep moves through a corner before continuing up the buttress. 150m

This route faces more North East and had, had some sun the turf was much better on this line as there wasn't as much snow.

After these routes I went over to Bowfell Buttress and did Plaque route and Rib and Groove, It was much colder being exposed to quite a strong Northerly, the turf was well frozen and quite a bit of useable ice up the slabs on plaque route and in the groove of rib and groove. Gable still in the cloud today and it could well be hoared up, the easier buttress routes will definately be OK. Window Gully on Great End could have ice in it as there is a surprising amount of water ice about.

Thank God for lunch hours. (pictures to follow)

2007-01-22T09:17:00.000Z

Bowfell Buttress 22-1-07

2007-01-22T08:15:00.000Z

Winter has finally arrived in the Lakes, there has been quite a bit of snow high up. N through to North West facing slopes have been wind scoured and are well frozen above 700m, With some hoar and icing on the rocks.

On Helvellyn NE facing slopes are holding a lot of snow and exposed turf is frozen above 700m Striding and Swirall both requiring axe and crampons, snow gullys complete. Snow quite sticky but not too bad, a bit of sunshine and a hard freeze may bring easier gullies into very good condition.

There looks to be more snow in the East which could make mixed buttress climbing better in the West. Cloud cover was down to 500m for long periods yesterday, People will be climbing in the Lakes this week and my top tip at the moment would be Gable Crag. If the Harder Buttresses aren't hoared up then the easier buttress lines around the Bottle shaped pinnacle will be Ok. Failing this Head to Helvellyn and if the Turf isn't good enough on Viking Buttress do the ridges. Ice may start forming over the next couple of days at Great End.

The Photo shown Bowfell Buttress this morning. It maybe OK but the wind hasn't been blowing straight onto it so turf may not be frozen, some of the easier North Buttress/Cambridge Crags routes could be OK.

2007-01-12T22:54:00.000Z

Welcome to my new adventure into the internet.

On this site I hope to give you an idea of current Lakes winter climbing conditions and let you know what I've been getting up to North of the Border and further a field.

So far winter hasn't really happened in the Lakes, we've hardly had any frosts. I have done a few rock routes that have been covered in snow which were very sporting without any winter gear, but nevertheless they weren't in acceptable winter condition so the axes were left at home.

My days off have been coinciding with the thaw parts of the current Scottish freeze thaw action. I managed one trip to the Ben in Early December with Woody and we did Cornucopia.