Back on the Ben

Just back from a first trip north of the season. Yesterday was a brilliant sunshine day on the Ben. The snow line is at the CIC hut and is just over knee deep in coire na ciste. Went to slab climb on the Trident buttress yesterday and did Tower Ridge today. There was a layer of ice firmly attached to the rock that made it hard to find footholds but the cracks weren't too chocked with ice, burried turf wasn't frozen. It was a lot colder today and there was a strong NE wind blowing this had stripped some snow off some of the harder routes around the top of Number three gully buttress and has started forming quite a bit of ice around and about it also made for an exiting crossing of t Tower Gap.

It was snowing as we came over Dunmail Raise this evening so we'll have to see what happens it the lakes this week. I think the fells could be too wet for good conditions at the moment.

Waiting for the winter

To while away the summer months I decided to address unfinished business with Lakes Ultra Trail. The race was run for the first time last year. I only made it 85 miles of the way round before calling it a day in torrential rain and strong winds, this year I had to finish it. The last 10 miles were a bit of a trial, but I did get round, a little outside of my target of 30 hrs so I will have to go back next year.

Gimmer Chimney FWA.

Taking advantage of the snowfall yesterday afternoon and knowing that the turf would be solid I thought Gimmer Chimney would be worth a look at yesterday evening. It was in brilliant condition and gave a really good mixed climb with technical balancey climbing. Gimmer is rarely in condition. Gimmer Chimney is probably in condition more often than you would think and has a healthy covering of turf, being able to see it from the house probably helps in catching it just right.

The Pictures show John Kelly in a blizzard on the first pitch and exiting the chimney on the second pitch.

Brilliant ice conditions

Yesterday I went for a milage day to try and finally throw off the flu. I started at Brown Cove crags and finished at Tarn and Falcon crag I climbed; Right Buttress Crack, left Buttress, Central Gully, Viking Buttress, V corner, Number 1 Gully, Nethermost Gully, Jogebar Gully, Thrash Corner, Rescue Groove, Ramp Route, Chock Gully, Dollywagon Chimney and Dollywagon Gully. The East Facing aspect is wind scoured and plastered in Neve. The last three routes I did for completeness I did do them the day before but they were in such good condition.

This afternoon I went for a speculative look at Inaccessible gully with Rich Ensoll, a route that I had wanted to do for a long time. It didn't disappoint and was in great condition. Featured ice, thin ice,. neve and overhanging chockstones all the ingredients for a classic route don't be fooled by the overall Grade IV rating.

That's 18 routes in three days. I don't really need to say that conditions are good. I've had reports that some of the easier angled buttress routes around bowfell aren't in great condition with unconsolidated snow and unfrozen snow.

If you're heading out for a walk you will need an axe and crampons and you will use them. There have been a lot of accidents over the last few days. There are big sheets of neve everywhere and you easily take a few hundred metre slip!!

Chocks away

Had a running mission to Helvellyn this afternoon. I climbed Dollywagon Gully, Dollywagon Chimney and Chock Gully. Brilliant snow ice short sections of water ice and a few chock stones to negotiate being the order of the day made more exiting by wearing running shoes with G10's tightly affixed. Some of the best conditions for this type of climbing in recent years. The fells are covered in big slabs of glissening neve from about 500m upwards, there is quite a lot of water ice building where the sun has been on the snow. The very top of the buttress to the left of Dollywagon Gully had a small amount of hoar on it.

Gullies above red tarn will be good as will Great End.

Weekend Conditions

The buttresses stripped out on Wednesday night and it was quite warm on Thursday. Lots of snow stayed through the thaw and overnight on Thursday it snowed again this time down to Valley level. What snow had stuck to steeper ground stripped off in the sun during the day today and there has been very little wind.

The snow is quite wet and may start to freeze down overnight tonight, underneath the snow the turf is not frozen. You need to find routes that don't rely on turf and have snow stuck to them or try your luck with a gully. I would head as high as possible and go to Gable Crag. If you park at Seathwaite and walk up Gillercombe you can always go across to Great End if Gable doesn't give you any sport and see if the gullies have consolidated.

Wild weather

Had a quick trip to Pavey on Tuesday afternoon, The crag was very white intended to look at something that wouldn't have too much turf on it as it was a bit soggy under the snow. Climbed Cooks Tour which gave a very good first pitch before easier ground led to the top. There is a lot of snow on the tops and strong winds have been adding to the general experience.

I was at Gable Crag yesterday with fellow Langdale resident Mark Edwards. After sampling some exiting ground after a somewhat leisurely start we finished off up the bottle shaped pinnacle. Again lots of snow and a strong wind. For snowed up rock on the steep ground conditions were good. easier angled ground is hard going with loads of snow. Windy gap is sporting an alpine style snow crest.

The forecast is for a catastrophic thaw tonight at all levels with heavy rain coming in on a warm front. It will then cool down again during the day tomorrow. We will have to wait and see what happens.